Unraveling History from the 1B Colliery Garden: Dynamics of Industry,
Environment, Tourism and Culture
in Cape Breton Island.
Paul-William Gagnon
University of Massachusetts
May 24, 2004
"But then, these things are not to be done by Companies; who generally
set their Minds wholly upon getting rich in a little time; and abandon, or
neglect every thing which does not immediately return large Profits. They give
themselves very little Trouble about making solid and lasting Settlements, or
considering the Advantage of the Inhabitants; for whom it is not possible to
have too great a Regard, if we would engage them to establish themselves in a
new Colony, and promote their interests therein."
--William Bollan, colonial agent to London from 1745-1762, writing in
regard to what use the lands of Cape Breton should be put to. 1
"Under capitalism the working class has but two courses to follow: crawl --
or fight. "
--Union organizer J.B. McLachlan commenting during a 155 day labor day strike
in Cape Breton.2
"To understand and appreciate the mining community of Glace Bay, or the
other mining areas, or Cape Bretoners in general, it is necessary to penetrate
the fog formulated by politicians, journalists, tourists, industrial relations
experts, novelists and yes, academics and to concentrate on the traditions and
on the culture. That is why they [the Cape Bretoners] have survived."
--Don MacGillivray, "Glace Bay: Images and Impressions."3
"Of Course, that's exactly it!" she exclaimed. "I might have
known because old Scotland is full of fairies. Probably when the Reverend Norman
MacLeod sailed away from Scotland in the year 1817, there were stowaway brownies
on board-- brownies, you know, are the good Scotch fairies."
-- "The Duchess," a fictional character in New York travel writer
Gordon Brinley's 1936 book Away to Cape Breton.4
While traveling in Atlantic Canada in the summer of 2003,
I happened to stumble upon the Cape Breton Miner's Museum in the town of Glace
Bay, Nova Scotia. The sign outside advertised a museum of coal mining artifacts
and a guided tour into the Ocean Deeps Colliery, a defunct coal mine that, like
most Cape Breton Mines, begins on the shore and follows the coal seams along
their diagonal path down, out, and under the strata beneath the sea. Three days
before arriving at the museum, I had been tramping around in the Cape Breton
Highlands National Park, world renowned for its stunning natural beauty. One day
after visiting the Mining Museum, while waiting for the six-hour superferry ride
to Newfoundland, and less than an hour's drive from Cape Breton Highlands, I
took a side trip to the infamous Sydney Tar Ponds, the site of North America's
largest hazardous waste legacy.
__________________________________________
The Miner's Museum used an eye-catching photo as a logo: the paradoxically
cheery but coal-smudged face of Cape Breton miner with hardhat and headlamp. I was
told by the museum receptionist that admission to the museum was three dollars and fifty cents; to join the mine tour was an additional three dollars
and fifty cents. I gave her a five dollar bill and a "Twonie"
(Canadians seem proud of their ecological heritage; Canadian money often
depicts Canadian wildlife. One dollar coins bear the image of a loon and are
affectionately called "Loonies." Two dollar coins are called "Twonies.")
Coal mining as an industry has been slowly dying in Cape Breton for half a
century. The phasing out
of coal mining as an industry on the island began in 1967,5 and
although
there has been talk of revitalizing the industry by applying new technologies to
existing collieries and untapped seams, doing so does not appear to be economically profitable.6 The last two active collieries are
expected to run out of coal in the next nine years.7 From 1990 and 1997,
the Canadian government subsidized the failing coal industry at the sum of $650 million dollars.8 Between the closing of the mines and the collapse
of the Grand Banks fisheries, Cape Breton has become one of the most
economically distressed regions of Canada. Unemployment has soared; Glace Bay has one
of the highest unemployment rates of any community in Canada.9 Economic infrastructure
that once depended on coal mining has packed up for greener pastures or has simply ceased to exist. The huge coke ovens
and steel mill that once turned the economic wheels of Sydney, Cape Breton's
only city, were nationalized along with coal mining in 1967 in an industrial
welfare initiative to reduce Cape Breton's unemployment, but they eventually
were closed (the ovens in 1988 and the mill in 2001), leaving a wake of blue
collar unemployment and a toxic legacy several miles wide by twenty meters deep
around a local tidal estuary.10 An aura of post-industrial decay has
loomed over the Sydney-Glace Bay region for some time; descriptions of
Sydney in Jim and Pat Lotz's 1974 book Cape Breton Island and the 2002
Lonely Planet travel guide to Canada are comparable:
Lotz: A history of poor labour-management
relations, of industrial and urban blight and exploitation still hangs over the
land and the people, as is obvious even on casual visits to parts of Sydney,
Glace Bay and other places in industrial Cape Breton.11
Lonely Planet: Sydney is...the embattled core of the island's collapsed
industrial belt. As the heart of a coal mining district, this old town has seen
its share of grief and hardship. Long a drab and rather grim place. . .12
I was told that the mine tours were guided by real miners--laborers who had once
worked Cape Breton coal. As I recall, there were three working in the museum on that day. My guide was a short but wiry snow-haired old man with the colorful
name of Hinson Calabrese. He was fascinating. His storytelling ability in
exchange for a seven dollar admission fee left me feeling like a thief. He explained that he
worked half of his life in coal mines--beginning at the age of thirteen--in Cape Breton, and in the mines of New Brunswick. He spoke of silicosis,
collapsing timber, pittance wages, unforgiving bosses, and of his father, who
had also been a coal miner. He spoke of dirt that would not come out in the
wash. He spoke of working coal seams no more than a foot and a
half feet high with nothing more than hand tools. He spoke of men buried alive,
occasionally men buried then rescued, and of being buried in collapsing seams
himself--on two different occasions--before he quit mining and took up raising
chickens, because, he said, "I was married. My wife was expecting. I
figured twice was enough."13
You can find mention of the Cape Breton Highlands in Nova Scotia travel
literature; it's on the map. It, along with Halifax, are what most people come
to the province to see. The Glace Bay Mining Museum is also on the map, although mostly as
an afterthought for tourists who have come to see the main attractions. The
Highlands are a stunning collusion of rugged boreal forest, heath covered
mountains, and dashing, dramatic coastlines--so reminiscent of the landscape of
the Scottish Highlands that settlers from that place are said to have come to
Cape Breton
because it reminded them of home.14 In fact, some of the older
residents still speak Scottish Gaelic and there is currently a Gaelic revival in
many areas of Nova Scotia and especially Cape Breton--a trend aimed at
recovering and preserving Gaelic culture and language15 Many people
in Cape Breton speak with a mild to heavily distinct Scottish accent and have strikingly
Scottish features. (Acadian French, Irish, English descendents of American
Revolution British loyalists, and Native Canadian Mi'kmaq make up most of the
balance of the Nova Scotia ethnography).
Hinson Calabrese asked us to don black capes and hard hats. The capes were for
keeping coal dust off the summer clothing of the tourists. The hardhats were to
keep visitors from banging their heads on the four-foot high ceilings of the seam. Hinson
told us the story of coal mining in Cape Breton, the natural history of coal,
the machinery--both mechanical and manual, and the safety equipment of miners. For instance, consider the
evolution of flammable methane gas detection technology: what is now accomplished with electronic detectors was once
determined by
observing the livelihood of a caged canary (more sensitive to methane levels
than human beings). We've all heard of the canary method, but what most of us
don't know is that before canaries were used there was another method for
testing for methane: a convicted prisoner was sent into a shaft with a lit
torch: if he came back alive, the mine was safe and his sentence was commuted.
If not, the community had one less convict on their hands; his immolation burned
off the methane and made the shaft safe for mining--until the gas again built
up in the shaft.16
You won't find the Sydney Tar Ponds on most of the tourist maps. The 2002 edition of Lonely Planet Publication's guide to Canada features a full column spotlight on the Tar Ponds.17 The Lonely Planet Guides are the liberally conscious travel bible of those who prefer youth hostels and similar low budget and socially centered kinds of lodging. As a consequence of Lonely Planet's controversial choice to include information on Canada's worst environmental mess, the Tar Ponds had suddenly become somewhat of a macabre tourist attraction (the local chamber of commerce was likely less than thrilled by the inclusion). While exploring Cape Breton, I ran into numerous international tourists who had indicated they planned to visit the Tar Ponds. Property owner-activists around the ponds made sure travelers understood what was at stake: during my visit, I found home-made signs on the chain link fences around the contaminated area. One sign read:
WELCOME TO THE GATES OF HELL
Nearby, the front lawn of an apartment building bordering the ponds was
inhabited by a grisly collection of scarecrows made from old clothing and
straw--"monsters" and "victims" of the sludge. Like the
Love Canal controversy in New York fifteen years earlier, the people affected by
the contamination wanted the government to buy out their property made worthless
by the nearby superfund site.18
One grotesque mannequin held a sign that read:
| Tar Pond Monster When I Came out they put the Fence up. That was 4 years ago I'm still Here and Still nothing done. |
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Toxic discharges often seeped into the cellars of nearby residences. Sydney has the highest mortality rate of any place in Canada, and one of the highest cancer, birth defect, and miscarriage rates. Contamination of shellfish and crustaceans with polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) has closed the lobster fishery around Sydney. Wastes from years of coke and steel production, industrial and community dumping, and raw sewage discharge into the Muggah Creek estuary of Sydney include some 185 cancer causing chemicals and other highly toxic pollutants. The 700,000 tons of contaminants include benzene, dioxin, PAHs, organic pollutants, a mélange of toxic heavy metals, and a whopping 40,000 tons of carcinogenic PCBs.19 In the summer of 2001, residents took direct action, including a tax revolt and a protest--they handed out bags of toxic Tar Ponds dirt to tourists entering and exiting Cape Breton Island on the Canso Causeway.21
__________________________________________
We're near the end of the tour, Hinson Calabrese tells us. We round a
corner towards a well-lit area. There is an alcove to the right. Without any
foreshadowing of what we are about to see, Hinson leads us in, motioning to the
benches that surround a small but very well-tended flower and vegetable garden.
We no longer have to stoop. The lamps above the greenery feel like miniature
suns; their light leaps off the slick black walls of the seam. Hinson's voice,
when it comes, is little more than a whisper. There is something weighty to it,
reverential. There is a history of such gardens, Hinson tells us; in 1924, a
miner named William Krause came up with the idea. Securing permission from
management, under the condition that the garden would be maintained on the
miner's own time, Krause was given a few lightbulbs; he got water and fertilizer
from the underground stables that housed the mine's "pit ponies" (pit
ponies lived most of their lives underground; they were brought to the
surface only once a year during the miner's three week vacation). Dirt was
carried from the surface--often in the hard hats of the miners. The garden was
located in the mine known as Colliery 1B, Glace Bay, and was approximately one
mile out from the shore and about one thousand feet under the ocean floor. The
garden was a success. According to the Calabrese, Krause's garden was the first
underground garden in North America; his efforts were duplicated in other coals
mines throughout the world and the 1B garden was visited by dignitaries from
Europe. Communal tending of the 1B underground garden became a source of pride for local
coal miners. When the Miner's Museum was established in the Ocean Deeps
Colliery, the underground garden experiment was repeated.20
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It is a wonder that the miners bothered with the garden at all. By today's
standards, their days were long, their pay and benefits sub-standard, their work
hazardous, unhealthy, and psychologically oppressive. Political historian Paul
MacEwan describes the working conditions of the Cape Breton coal miner:
"Coal mining one of the most arduous and depressing
occupations in the world. Mine workers do not work in warm well lighted places,
but in the clammy depths of the earth, where violent injury and sudden death are
ever present companions. A miner is often subjected to extreme heat or extreme
cold, or to working an a confined space in a cloud of dust or acid laden
water."21
Miners led busy personal lives outside of the mines; they had families. That
the miners took the time to create such a garden on their own time, off the
clocks, in such an environment, is amazing. What inspired them to do so? What
did the garden mean to them? At first glance, the garden might seem like a small
thing, a little bit of fancy engineered by bored miners. However, when we begin
to tug at the symbolic "string" of the 1B Colliery Garden and the
Ocean Deeps Colliery Garden, we realize we are unraveling a very complex
narrative that goes beyond the usual relationships we conjure when we think of
coal mining and its legacy --labor vs. management, industrialization versus
pastoralism or primitivism, culture vs. centrifuge, ethics vs. exploitation. It
is a narrative that speaks most deeply of humankind's relationship to place.
Perhaps what is most striking about the 1B Colliery Garden is the stark contrast
between a well tended garden of flowering plants and the filthy, toxic, and
troglodytic environment of the coal mines themselves. Simply put, the
environment of the coal mine is, perhaps, the most disturbingly unnatural of
industrial environments. There is no sunlight, no soil, no growing things, no
fresh air or water; the physical space is confining and access to the outside
world is cut off. The fear of asphyxiation, flash explosions, and crushing death
are ever present to the coal miner. "Black Lung" or silicosis might cut his years short. In many of the collieries, laborers were transported to the
working end of the mine via "man rakes," narrow
gauge rail cars that rocketed down deep into the depths of the mines like rollercoasters to
Hell.22 There was no returning to the surface until the
shift was over. Working a long shift, a miner might get up at dawn, ride the
manrake into the dark colliery, and return to the surface in the evening; he might not see the light of day for up to six days
a week,
especially in the winter.23 The contrast between the environment of
the coal mine and the image of a thriving garden is therefore radical. The garden, after
all, is the primary symbol of the rural farming life. As Alan Sekula points out
in his analysis of the narratives of labor photography, the image of mining
"may be the antithesis of farming."24 During my tour of the
Ocean Deeps Colliery, when I rounded the corner and saw the garden, I was
immediately struck by the impossibly huge
gulf between those two worlds. How much more powerfully it must have called out to the
laborers who were working in the mines day after day.
To better understand the significance of the 1B Colliery Garden, let's turn to
an example of a project deliberately engineered to contrast the rural
with the industrial. On a much larger scale, it was such "contrast"
that Frederick Law Olmstead had in mind when he designed New York's Central
Park. According to Olmstead, Central Park would "secure an antithesis
of objects of vision to those of streets and houses. . .affording the most
agreeable contrast to the confinement, bustle, and monotonous street-division of
the city" and "supply to the hundreds of thousands of tired workers,
who have no opportunity to spend their summers in the country, a specimen of
God's handiwork that shall be to them inexpensively, what a month or two in the
White Mountains or the Adirondaks is, at great cost, to those in easier
circumstances." 25 The purpose of the park, according to
Olmstead, was to be one of respite from conditions created through
industrialization and its by-product, urbanization. The recipients of this
respite would be the "hundreds of thousands of tired workers who have no
opportunity to spend their summers in the country", i.e. primarily the blue
collar and low level white collar working classes. The "shape" of the
project would be "a
specimen of God's own handiwork"--or, in reality, an approximation of God's
(or, if you will, Nature's) handiwork designed by Olmstead. Following in the
humanistic and early environmentalist tradition of thinkers such as Henry David
Thoreau and Thomas Cole, Olmstead believed that spending time in
"natural" environments was spiritually, psychologically, and even
physically rejuvenating.25 Such ideas remained powerful through
the New Deal era, popularized in grand manifestos such as Benton MacKaye's
famous Appalachian Trail proposal.26
At the most basic level, the underground colliery garden might have provided the
Cape Breton "muckers" a similar respite, in miniature. It is easy to
imagine that the gardens might have been a vital reminder to the miners of the
"real" world outside the mines, an elementary symbol of hope and safe
return to the surface.
But this is an easy assumption. If a symbol functions, it
does so on various different levels. Some symbols are universal--the garden as
an archetype may be one of those. For instance, a smile is a symbol common to
almost every culture. As a symbol, its meaning is so universal that we have
cleverly reinvented it for use in email conversations:
:)
The trouble with universal symbols is that we tend to divorce them of their context without thinking about it. We acknowledge the universal elements of the symbol but deny the possibility of local interpretations. Perception of the symbol "garden" might be different for a New Yorker thinking of a window box compared to the perceptions of a migrant worker in the San Joaquin Valley picking strawberries, to a dust farmer in Oklahoma praying for rain, to a car salesman in suburban New Jersey purchasing tomato plants for his 5' by 5' backyard vegetable plot.
Garden. Coal mine. These symbols have universal significance to all of us; they also have particular significance depending on our geography, occupation, and culture. By extension, we can also say that the contrast between "garden" and "coal mine" is universally symbolic, offering us a third universal symbol, one of juxtaposition: light vs. dark, Heaven vs. Hell. . .etcetera. In our understanding of these universal symbols, we must not underestimate how the coal mining labor population of Cape Breton might have reckoned such symbols locally. Since we can say that culture will certainly affect local interpretation, let's start our unraveling there.
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Between 1871 and 1900, there was an epic migration from rural areas
of Cape Breton and Nova Scotia that more than tripled the census in coal mining
centers such as Sydney and Glace Bay. From 1901 to 1911, the coal town
populations doubled again from their 1900 census--all told, a leap from 12,000
people to over 50,000.27 Most of these people were farmers; some
fished; some did both. These agriculturists could be further classified into two
groups. "Frontlanders" were farmers cultivating the scarce but rich arable land
of Cape Breton: floodplains, estuaries, and other lowlands. "Backlanders" were farmers eking out a
thin
existence in the more or less infertile, rugged interior of the penninsula.28
Cape Breton
Island, 110 miles long by 87 miles wide, with roughly one thousand nautical
miles of coastline (combined seashore and the loch-like interior lake, Bras d'Or),
has very little soil good for growing anything.29 The lot of backland
farmers was a rough one. A potato famine (1845-1849), further exacerbated their
tenuous existence. Frontland farmers weathered the blight well enough, but
conditions in the backlands pushed the land's ability to support its population
beyond its limit.30 Backland farmers were often forced to depend on
government welfare, emigrate, or find other means to support themselves.
Agricultural wisdom would indicate that the geography of Cape Breton had long
before exceeded its potential to support an agriculturally self-sufficient
population.31 In 1858, the breaking of the General Mining
Association's (GMA) longstanding monopoly of coal mining in the province and
new trade agreements with the United States opened up mining to speculators.
This produced sudden widespread development of the coal industry.32 The
United States Civil War further contributed to the demand for Cape Breton coal.
From the late 1860's to 1880, the coal extraction industry experienced various
ups and downs, but overall the development of coal mining had an enormous impact
on rural depopulation.33 In 1900, the opening of a steel mill and
coke ovens in Sydney and another steel mill at Sydney Mines (using iron ore from
nearby Bell Island, off the east coast of Newfoundland) contributed to further
depopulation of rural areas and encouraged a wave of European and Canadian
immigration.34 And yet, the majority of the industrial population
were rural Cape Bretoners, most of whom--as we shall see-- were the descendents
of immigrants from a roughly ninety-by-ninety-by-ninety mile triangular region
in western Europe35. What is most interesting about this history is the fact that, at the beginning
of the nineteenth century, there was hardly any rural population or agriculture
on Cape Breton Island. Who were these rural people then? Where did they come
from?
Up until 1802, "Cape Breton Island was a thinly settled, extensively
forested and relatively undeveloped colony of Great Britain."36 Over
two-thirds of the inhabitants were supported by fishing; there were only a
handful of farmers and coal miners on the island. In 1795, Sydney, which would
become an industrial mecca by 1900, had a population of around 120 people, most
of whom were provincial employees of the British Government.37 By
1801, the entire population of Cape Breton Island did not exceed 2,600 souls.38
Of these, half were French Acadians; most of the balance were English Loyalists
who had fled the American Revolution. The remainder of the population were Irish (mostly fishermen from Newfoundland), a few New England
emigrants, remnants of Mi'kmaq Nation people living "in the interior woods,"
and a small number of Scottish settlers who had bounced in from other parts of
Canada.39
After 1802, the population of Cape Breton began a forty year exponential
increase through massive immigration. In 1815, there were 6,000 people living
in Cape Breton, up from 2,600 fourteen years prior. By 1827 there were 19,000;
by 1938, 35,000; and by 1851, nearly 55,000.40 That the vast majority
of these immigrants were Scottish is interesting enough, but much more unique is
the fact that most of these people were from the same region of Scotland--the
Western Highlands and the adjacent Hebrides Islands.41 As historian
Stephen J. Hornsby notes, emigration "was remarkably confined to a
triangular wedge if territory that had its eastern point at Fort William in
Lochabar, its southwestern in Barra, and its northwestern in Lewis"42--an
area centered around the Island of Skye, ninety miles triangular, roughly about
the same area as Cape Breton Island. Such a mass regional migration into a
relatively undeveloped area in so short a period of time produced a majority
Cape Breton culture not very different than that of the Western Scottish
Highlands.43 In less than ten years, the non-Scottish residents of
Cape Breton had become minorities. "In large part," writes Stephen
Hornsby in his history of nineteenth-century Cape Breton, "Cape Breton had
become a Scottish island."44
Why such a diaspora? The fact that explorers noted that Cape Breton resembled Scotland45
probably helped provoke initial
immigration, as did early 17th Century honorary charters ceding Cape
Breton and other maritime territories to various Scottish lords.46 But
more important was the correspondence and tales of those who had already
migrated to Cape Breton or who had visited Cape Breton and other nearby colonies.
Often
these milk and honey stories, although well intentioned, did little to express
the geographic reality of Cape Breton and the island's ability to support
agriculture any more than was true in the Western Highlands. Richard Brown, in
1869, writing his history of Cape Breton and its settlement, suggested that
Scottish Highland regiments serving the British Empire in 1758 at the battle of
Louisbourg (a French fortress on the east coast of Cape Breton) planted the seed
for mass immigration:
"Many of the Highlanders, with that prudence and
foresight peculiar to their countrymen, who had noted with observant eyes the
fertility of the provinces in which they had served, in every respect so much
superior to the bleak and barren hills of their native land, determined to make
them their future home. Those who settled in Canada, Nova Scotia, and St. John's
Island [Prince Edward Island] sent home to their friends such glowing accounts
of their new homes, about the year 1773. .." 47
Such "glowing accounts" of "the fertility of the provinces"
were not unnecessarily true for early settlers who had the pick of the best
land.48 It does appear, however, that their enthusiasm got the best
of them, as was typical of so many early settlers of North America: they grossly
underestimated the resources of the land, imagining a cornucopia without end. In
reality, the Western Highlands of Scotland, with the exception of coastal areas, were more
fertile that the lands of Cape Breton; they had for many centuries supported a
fairly stable and self sufficient agricultural community.49 And yet,
by the end of the 1700's tenant farmers in the Western Scottish Highlands were
pushed off their agricultural land. The reasons for these evictions are
complex, but the main impetus seems to be the ascension of wool as an
industry--essentially, people were removed to make room for sheep. The shift
from hand-processed wool to factory-processed wool had also made the rural
weaver redundant. Furthermore, the Napoleanic wartime economy had boosted the price of local
wool and kelp-derived alkali. Tenants and the landless cottars who worked for
the tenants were forced from the more fertile interior highlands to the coasts
and islands, where they eked out an existence on much more marginal agricultural
land and supplemented their income by harvesting and burning kelp to make
alkali, which in turn they sold to their landlords. Many of them barely got by;
landlords charged rent at the same rate they expected to pay tenants for alkali.
Some tenants and their cottars were forced to emigrate; these emigrations
account for much of the 1802 to 1815 settlement of Cape Breton. However, the
situation in the Western Highlands became much worse. The kelp-derived alkali
market collapsed in the post-Napoleonic War economy, forcing landlords to turn
entirely to wool to support their lifestyles. Wool finally came to the islands
and coasts of the Western Highlands, and tenants, who could no longer pay their
rent with kelp, were evicted wholesale. Sheep were profitable; human beings
were not.50
Those who could afford to leave did so. Many could not. Landlords, faced with a
huge number of tenants who could not afford to pay their rent or hire passage to
North America, paid passage for them, either directly, or by agreeing to cancel
their debts if they emigrated. Such arrangements were often unscrupulous; ship
captains were paid a minimum fare to dispose of unwanted tenants. They delivered
no more than what they were paid for: many Cape Breton immigrants arrived at
their new home near the end of the growing season with little or no means to get
through their first Canadian winter.51 Later batches of immigrants,
forced to settle on poor Cape Breton backlands, had it even harder. The
provincial leadership of Cape Breton tried to stem the landslide immigration of
"penniless Scots" but had little resources to do so; the coasts of
Cape Breton were long and full of uninhabited ports where ships might secretly
dock and discharge their destitute human cargo unhindered.52 Attempts
to stem the immigrant tide ultimately failed. The problem reach its apex in
1827, as summarized by D.C. Harvey in his analysis of Scottish immigration in
Cape Breton:
"The year 1827 was to open a decade of misery for old
and new settlers alike and strain government machinery to the breaking point.
With the opening of navigation [in the spring] hundred of dispossessed Scots,
exploited by the agents of ship owners, were landed in the ports and harbours of
Cape Breton and, in the outlying ports, left to shift for themselves. In
September, the brig Stephen Wright entered Sydney harbour with 170
passengers. . .forty of whom were down with small-pox. . .In the following year,
the number of immigrants was more than doubled; and, in September again, the Two
Sisters arrived in Sydney with 160 passengers. . .several of whom were
suffering from small-pox ."53
Harvey also provides us with two excellent quotes that illustrate the problem
the provincial government had on their hands in 1827 and 1828. The first is from
a letter addressed to the Provincial Secretary; the second from Chief Justice
Marshall of Sydney:
"Another load of poor emigrants is arrived in our
Harbour. . .they brought with them some bad cases of malignant small pox--Four
are dead, three more, I understand are dying, and happy we shall be if the
contagion does not spread over the Country-- The Magistrates have experienced
great difficulty in their endeavors to prevent communication with the infected
Vessel and from the vessel to the shore-- The inmates of the latter have
threatened more than once to force a landing. . .This scene being transacted in
the presence of many spectators, among whom were some who wished to enquire for
their relatives and friends, several boats immediately rushed along side and the
author of this dangerous disobedience when spoken to by the acting Magistrate
defended his conduct and openly declared he was prepared to justify it. .
.I have been in constant expectation that the passengers
and crew would throw the Constables overboard and rush the Town. The Master of
the vessel, who is an obstinate brutish fellow, declares he will do nothing
towards the relief or recovery of his unhappy living Cargoe and in pursuance of
that determination perversely refuses to let air into the hold of the vessel
where it must necessarily be pestilential."54
And here:
"In the course of the present year, upwards of 2,100 persons have come into this district, from the Western part of Scotland, many of whom on their landing, were quite destitute of food, and also of the means of procuring it, in one instance, a number of them, at the time of their arrival, were infected with the smallpox, and it was, therefore, found requisite to prevent their being landed, or any freedom of intercourse being had with them, until their recovery, and in consequence of their provisions being nearly exhausted, when they arrived, and of their being very generally in the destitute state we have mentioned, they would inevitably have suffered the miseries of famine, if supplies of food had not been furnished to them by our directions, which was done on the faith that the expense thus incurred would be defrayed by Government. From the most current information we have been able to obtain, we are satisfied, that this county, even in the most abundant years, would scarcely have been in a condition, to support such a number of destitute persons, for the long period of twelve months, through which they must struggle, before they can raise subsistence for themselves-- Our crops, the present year, have in general failed, and those settlers, who have ventured to open their doors to their relatives and ancient connexions, have, with their families and lodgers, an alarming and melancholy prospect before them-- But great numbers of these unhappy people are without friends, or resources of any kind to relieve their necessities, and are begging from door to door for a morsel of food, and yet we have much reason to fear that notwithstanding the appearance of approaching scarcity, provisions will be exported, and thus the evil will be hastened and increased. It is unnecessary to attempt a description of the distress that awaits these wretched people, when our navigation being closed, it will be impossible to procure a supply of provisions, from any quarter whatever."55
These quotes well illustrate the dynamics of the immigration problem--the
"brutish" ship captain who wants only to discharge his "living
Cargoe"; the strong clan and family relations that provoked the attempted
rescue at the dismay of the local magistrate; the "destitute" and
unhealthy condition of many of the immigrants; the respectful but urgent
reminders for government aid; and the sudden awareness of the limits of
agricultural sustainability. Luckily, aid was forthcoming, if often at the last
minute,56 perhaps because the economic and political dynamics of the
mass emigration were well known and inescapably pitiable. Richard Brown, living
on the island for more than twenty years just after the last of the mass
immigrations, shows us that these dynamics were not unknown at the time:
". ..many of the Highland chieftains, who had
discovered that the raising of cattle and sheep afforded greater profits than
the letting of their lands to miserable tenants, were dispossessing the latter
of their farms and holdings; this harsh treatment of course gave a great impetus
to the emigration, and thousands left almost every district in the Highlands to
join their friends in the colonies. In the course of the twenty or thirty years
following 1773, whole baronies were turned into sheep farms, and hundreds of
families were driven across the Atlantic to look for a home in the backwoods of
[North] America."57
The economic politics behind this situation--the shoveling out of Britain's pauper population-- had been, in fact, proposed a long time before it actually happened--as early as the fifteenth century.58 Wool speculators were well aware that the poor farmers would have to go if they were to make their fortunes. William Bollan, writing in the early 1700's, suggests that paupers could be removed and resettled in Canada, not only ridding the landlords of redundant tenant farmers to make room for sheep, but also providing a new market for that wool--clothing for settlers in "frosty" Canada.
"Add to this the great Encrease which this Acquisition [Cape Breton Island] must bring, to the Woollen Manufacturers. The Climate of Cape Breton is, for a great Part of the Year, extremely cold: And the Business of Fishing is such, as exposes the People employed in it, to the damp, rainy, foggy, or frosty Air: Wherefore they must of necessity be well cloathed; which, consequently, makes a large Demand for our coarse Cloths, Flannels, Yarn, and Worsted Hose, Caps, Mittens, &c. Whereby great Numbers of poor, but industrious Families, now starving in the North and West of England, will be comfortably maintained, and enabled to pay their Rents, as well as rear their Children, and qualify them for some Branch or other of this Trade. . ..And how many will be required to inhabit the Island, and to garrison the Fortifications, I leave others to compute: But be they more, or be they less, they must likewise be cloathed and add to the Demand for our Woollen Manufactures."59
It is clear from this and other examples in William Bollan's book that he
sees Cape Breton (and Canada) as an economic solution to poverty in the British
Empire--he's not simply suggesting ridding landlords of their redundant human
tenants to make room for profitable sheep despite his vision of Canada as an
extension of the Old World manorial system. Others may have not been so humanely
idealistic. In any case, mass emigration from the Western Scottish Highlands to
Cape Breton did not let up until the early 1840's, when the potato famine
finally put an end to the possibility of more immigration.60 All
told, between 1802 and the early 1840's, some 20,000 "mainly Gaelic
speaking Scots" emigrated to Cape Breton.61
In all the history of European settlement in nineteenth century North America,
there is no place where old world culture was so thoroughly transplanted to the degree
experienced in Cape Breton during the Scottish settlement years,62
and certainly few places where such culture has lasted long as it has in Cape
Breton. The importance and durability of those bonds--still incredibly intact to
this day--can't be overstated. While visiting in 2003, I had the pleasure to
speak with several old timers who recalled growing up speaking only Gaelic.
Another claimed that in rural areas of Cape Breton--he was speaking of the rural
Cape North area in particular--one could tell (if he had the ear, so to speak)
the last name of a person by clan accent. To what extent this is true everywhere
in Cape Breton today is debatable, but, as Stephen Hornsby notes, it was
certainly very true throughout the nineteenth century:
"In some parts of the island, the clustering of
settlers from particular areas of western Scotland was so marked that regional
dialects, as well as language, were preserved. So long as Gaelic remained a
functional language, the rich body of folklore the immigrants brought with them
survived"63
It is important to understand the culture and "folklore" of these immigrants was rural with roots at least many hundreds of years old. And although the move from the Western Highlands to Cape Breton had been a rough one, settlers appeared to have adapted well enough emotionally. The psychological "loss of place" that European settlers typically experienced in the "new world" seems to have been less a problem for Gaelic Scots settling into an area increasingly more and more Scottish, and, as has been noted, Cape Breton even looked a little bit like the Western Highlands. Del Muise tells us that, "By the 1870's they had almost a century of occupation of their small farms, so there was a sense of time and place that was very deep among them."64.
It is almost as if the landscape of Cape Breton and its new people had bonded
in some mystical way, so much so that, as early as the end of the nineteenth
century, outsiders often described the "Cape Breton Highlander" in
terms typically reserved for true native North American peoples. Don MacGillivray writes:
"After one Cape Breton tour in 1889 one American
visitor stated: 'Many of the people exhibit that easy unconcern of the
flight of time which under less favourable circumstances would probably be
called laziness.' Presumably the criticism was tempered by the 'primitive splendours' of the general area. In 1893 John Gow observed
that, especially in west and northwest Cape Breton, while having lost the 'staid respectability' of the ancient Highlander,
'some of these
men are the wildest and hardest in the world.' For Gow, who detected traces
of a 'primitive hospitality,' Cape Bretoners were 'nature's
Ladies and Gentlemen.' The following year a Boston sophisticate assured his
readers that: 'It is worth a journey to Cape Breton merely to see the
people in their native wilds.' Yes, a vigorous and robust people. Some
might say too much so for 'they have not developed a taste for factory or
indoor work.' "65
Although the deplorable ignorance of such visitors to the real plight of the
Scottish Cape Bretoners during their forced migration between forty and ninety
years earlier goes without saying, what is amazing about these accounts is the
way in which outsiders saw these rural Scots as a natural extension of the Cape
Breton landscape. We can see similar rhetoric in the myth of the "Noble
Savage" typically reserved for Amerindian natives of the Americas. By way of
comparison, we can look at William Bollan's 1746 description of Maritime
natives, particularly the Mi'kmaq, and draw some interesting parallels.
"In turning over the Accounts given of the Conquests made in this part of the World, we frequently meet with the noble Struggles made by the People we call Savages; and brave Efforts, to recover their ancient and primitive Liberties. [Bollan goes on to describe how, by being deprived of these "Liberties" the various nations of "Savages" were reduced to making war upon each other-- apparently more so than they had in the past. He then continues:] Thus much for their Wars amongst themselves. But we have likewise seen them disputing their Liberties with the Europeans : Offering to trade with them upon fair footing ; desiring to keep good Correspondence with them ; disclaiming and renouncing all Enmity ; but protesting against the Right which was pretended to a Sovereignty over them, their Lands, Possessions, Laws or Liberties. Nay we have seen them, from this single Principle, engaged in long, bloody, and repeated Conflicts with Europeans. . .Bravery they are allowed to have, in the highest Degree ; and, on many Occasions; are not wanting for Conduct and Contrivance. But the Arts and Management of the Europeans have put their Politicks upon quite another Footing at this Day. The Original Simplicity and Disinterestedness is now no more to be met with; but Cunning and Deceit have taken its place. Violence, Cruelty, Drunkenness, and all kinds of Debauchery have been cultivated and improved amongst them, to an incredible and excessive Degree."66
It is also interesting to note how both the true native people and Western Highland immigrants were often labeled as "drunken" "violent" and "lazy."
There are lessons in these comparisons. In both cases, the cultural
group in
question was painted with the same brush: they were described as innocents of
sorts, "brave," "wild," "savage," or
"Nature's Ladies and Gentlemen." These people were also somehow fallen
from a previous state of grace, an "original simplicity" or
"staid respectability." Clearly, such terms allude to the myth of The
Fall: some malignant exterior force makes its way into Eden and corrupts its
inhabitants. Although William Bollan reserves his harshest accusations for the
French and the "Popish Powers,"68 he makes no qualms about
identifying the "Satan" in this story as "the Europeans"--an
indictment he levels several times in italics. Other critics tend to blame the
victims themselves.
As activist Giovanna Di Chiro explains in her treatise on environmental justice,
"Nature as Community," Native Americans and African Americans--both
whom were "classified as animals" were often seen as "part of a
wild, untamed nature that had to be exploited and controlled."69
Di Chiro concludes,
"Although "nature talk" separates humans
from nature and posits them as superior to nature, it specifies that some humans
are in fact part of nature. In other words, particular Euro-American romantic
constructions of nature have been and continue to be problematic and even
genocidal for people who have been characterized as being more like nature and
thus less than human."70
Assessments of rural Cape Bretoners are interesting to examine in light of Di
Chiro's thoughts. For instance, in the 1889 quote from the "American
visitor" who noted that, "Many of the people exhibit that easy
unconcern of the flight of time which under less favourable circumstances would
probably be called laziness"--and also in the 1893 words of the
"Boston sophisticate" who noted that Rural Cape Bretoners ". .
.have not developed a taste for factory or indoor work."71 And
yet, they did come to work in factories, and in the deep dark
"indoors" of mines; thousands of them in fact. But what is really
being said when an ethnic group is characterized as "not having developed a
taste for factory work?" The accusers in these instances are suggesting
that the rural Cape Bretoners are lazy (and perhaps stupid as well)--an
indictment that ridiculously ignores the hard, laborious life of poor subsistence level
agriculturists. Perhaps, then, the accusations point towards a certain
resentment of rural Cape Bretoners because they, by way of their tenacious
ancient rural traditions, were naturally resistant to the often dreadful role
set aside for them by the beneficiaries of an industrialized, capitalist
society: exploitation via a state of quasi-slavery in the industrial plantations
of the New World.
The fact that Cape Bretoners--notably rural Cape Bretoners--were looked down
upon is well documented. As early as the 1860's, John George Bourinot, a Cape
Breton legislator, noted "for years [a legislator] could not raise his
voice on behalf of that island without being met by sneers, if indeed he was
heard at all."72 During the debates regarding the question of a
Canadian Confederation, Bourinot noted, "I felt it was better to be an
appendage to Canada than to Nova Scotia, as we might obtain more justice then we
had received in the past from Nova Scotia."73 Later, the rural
Scottish poor who came to dominate the labor force of the Cape Breton mines and
mills were regularly demonized by newspapers both local and beyond.74
MacGillivray notes that, ". . .upon their transfer from a pre-industrial to
an industrial setting--the transformation from rural rustic to militant working
class--Cape Bretoners acquired another coat of characteristics. It was no more
positive; indeed, according to some it was far more sinister."75
Cape Bretoners were looked upon with derision based on regionalist and classist
prejudice --in the same way many rural poor folk across North America were
viewed. Uunfortunately, Cape Breton (and Newfoundland) was (and, in many ways, still
is) often viewed as Canada's Appalachia. Even today, the rhetoric
reserved for such people is most revealing. In a review on the website Travel
and Leisure.com by Canadian novelist Douglas Cooper--interestingly titled
"Canadian Gothic"--Cape Breton is not only compared to Appalachia,
but--quaintly, in this case-- to the culture of the "Middle Ages."76
In 1999, Halifax conservative economist and journalist Fred McMahon
compared the labor ethics of Cape Bretoners with those of the former Soviet
Union,77 suggesting, yet again, that "lazy" Cape Bretoners are prone to
socialist welfare dependence and anti-establishment values. McMahon continues:
". ..employment isn't worthwhile for many workers
unless it lasts long enough to provide a new round of employment insurance in a
regionally enriched program which allows people to collect EI most of the year,
year after year. Why give up the EI money you're already taking home for
short-term work that won't qualify you for another round of EI?. ..People in
Cape Breton can have a bright future if they shrug off the distortions,
dependency and sense of entitlement of the past, and take their fate into own
hands, as did people in Halifax and Moncton. Despite all the perversities of
Cape Breton's politicized economy, younger Cape Bretoners and a new class of
entrepreneurs have created a thriving, though small, technology sector, with
some real gems particularly in multi-media." 78
It is true that the political, cultural, and economic dynamics of
post-industrial Cape Breton are complex--and certainly Cape Bretoners aren't
above all reproach--but "just get over it" arguments like McMahon's
fail to address these issues in light of their history and how that history
plays itself out today. By labeling Cape Bretoners as a welfare culture, one
inherently denies the role outside capital interests played in strip-mining the
local economy and resources, vastly exacerbating --perhaps even creating-- the
current problem. Furthermore, it is perhaps these same attitudes that allowed
the rural people of Cape Breton to become so exploited in the first place.
McMahon concludes by suggesting that "younger" Cape Bretoners
unaffected by the "perversities" of the previous generation get with
it by jumping on the technology bandwagon79--echoing a long history
of rhetoric that insists if such-and-such people would just work harder and try
to fit in with what "we" see fit for them, they'd be able to
get ahead. In the eighteenth century, it was wool that would save them, in the
nineteenth, it was coal. Now, according to McMahon, it is
"technology." It is interesting to contrast these old solutions with
the recent dot-com crash. The trouble with McMahon's kind of
rhetoric characteristically fails to take into account an understanding of
culture and the requirements of real economic sustainability.
Let's consider the work ethic of rural Cape Bretoners. Don MacGillivray
tells us "there was a saying in the old world that turning a Highlander
into an industrial worker was like putting a deer in the plough,"80
meaning of course that there was some intrinsic attitude of resistance common to
both a deer forced into plowing and a highlander forced to work in a mill. This
is the crux of the matter: one might draw from this that the highlander is
equitable with a wild creature--and as we have said, this allows him to be more
easily dehumanized. Or, one might conclude that there is in both wild animals
and the highlander a certain intrinsic resistance to captivity and exploitation
through labor. . .and a certain sadness and despair common to both. Both of
these viewpoints contribute to the conflicted Rosseauian sobriquet "Noble
Savage," yet it is the second viewpoint that speaks intelligently and
ethically about the nature of exploitation and resistance to exploitation.
Emigrant Scots, exploited by their previous landlords in the Western Highlands
and subsequently discarded to starve or fend for themselves when they were no
longer economically useful, were proud of their newfound freedom from the
European manorial system and proud of their tiny bits of Cape Breton land, meager as
it might have been. Hornsby remarks that ". . .the social release from
the oppressive estate structure was palpable. ..No longer bound by the rents and
dues of the Scottish feudal system, settlers relished their greater
independence."81 Hornsby quotes the sentiments of one immigrant:
"I go out and in [my house] at my pleasure. No soul living forces me to do
a turn against my will, no laird, no factor, having no rent, nor any toilsome
work but what I do myself."82
To assume that the rural Cape Bretoner was pastoral simpleton who was not
interested in furthering himself would be unfair. Similar myopic viewpoints
abound in descriptions of Native North Americans as totally incapable of
material desire, denying the obvious ambition of those same natives who engaged
in the fur and wampum trade83--regardless if such values were
cultivated by Europeans or were there to begin with. Still, there did seem to be
an attitude among rural Cape Bretoners, one more inclined towards appreciating
life and less inclined to the classist puritan work ethic that often forms the
subconscious germ of labeling such rural or "native" ethnic
groups as "lazy." More observant witnesses have noted that rural Cape
Bretoners were not at all lazy; rather they were simply engaged in a
surprisingly psychologically healthy work ethic: "Their previous
environment had encouraged an attitude towards life that demanded only a very
meagre standard of living so long as there was ample opportunity for amusement
and happiness." Or: "They worked while they worked but when there was
nothing particular to do, they hated to pretend to work -- they went to a picnic
instead."85 Don MacGillivray writes:
"Clearly, such people would not be easily swayed with
simple wage incentives. With the arrival of large scale industrial capitalism
into Cape Breton very late in the nineteenth century the people of the area did
not leap to embrace the demands of the new system. Such demands--to be thrifty,
sober, obedient, diligent--clashed directly with older traditions and attitudes.
Such people were not easily trained, or broken. They were primarily a
pre-industrial people with a rich and vibrant culture and the values they
carried with them into industrial Cape Breton would not be easily
discarded."86
The cultural labor values of rural Cape Bretoners and the work ethic of
industrial capitalism were inherently at odds. In 1900, Cape Breton mining
management noted, "It is not unusual for 25 percent of the employees at a
colliery to be off work on certain days. Many in the Spring go fishing and
farming, while in the Summer many go frolicking."87 MacGillivray
notes that management was often "quite unable to comprehend" this sort
of attitude, and suggests that the Cape Breton work ethic "could also be
viewed as a strong statement that the miners in Cape Breton were going to
continue to decide their own priorities and they were not necessarily those
demanded by industrial capitalism. They were, however, ones which recently
removed rural Cape Bretoners could easily accommodate." 88
Unlike in many industrial areas, the work force of the Cape Breton mines and
mills was never far from the influence of its rural clannish roots. Family
members still farmed, logged, fished, and engaged in other pre-industrial
subsistence activities; there was continual exchange between rural an urban
populations.89
Upon reviewing the rhetoric in which Cape Bretoners were described through the
accounts of those who had the most to gain by continued control and
exploitation, one comes face to face with specter of classism (and perhaps also
racism). Alan Sekula, in "Photography Between Labour and Capital"
suggests that industrial age classism is based in an irrational fear of a blue
collar labor uprising. Sekula quotes Francis Klingender in his study of
eighteenth and nineteenth century industrial rhetoric, then extrapolates:
"'The sense of awe and terror which the middle
class visitor was likely to experience at a mine was not, however, entirely due
to the strangeness of the scene, the wild appearance of the men or the danger of
their work. The effect produced was heightened by a growing consciousness that
the miners, and indeed the industrial workers generally, were beginning to form
a distinct, ever more numerous and hostile nation."90
A similar fear did not develop in the United States until the 1870's.
Militant miners, particularly the "Molly McGuires" of the Pennsylvania
anthracite fields, were to become objects of hatred in the middle class
press."90
With regard to Cape Breton's blue collar labor force, Don MacGillivray points
out that such "irrational fears of revolution" were prevalent
in "all levels of the [Canadian] government."91 "Red
Scare" knee-jerk reactions are also well documented.92 In this
"irrational fear" one can see echoes of the same guilt-driven paranoia
that began to fester in the pre-emancipation southern American antebellum elite
when it became apparent that they were outnumbered by their slaves. Going even
further back, this fear has its roots in a general puritan fear of wildness--
things perceived as savage, primitive, barbaric, etc. were all beyond the
control of a society--a society bound by laws to maximize the comfort of those
who subscribed to those laws, and consequently, to marginalize or exploit
outsiders, non-conformists, and persons of lesser caste. The fear that these
"others" will someday rise up and take what they were deprived
of--namely, the lifestyle and resources of those who oppress them--is an old
fear. And yes, this is an old argument as well--far too tangential to go too
deeply into here. Nonetheless, some parallels cry out. For instance, in Of
Wolves and Men--Barry Lopez' famous exploration of the interrelationship
between human beings and wolves-- the author argues that although there might be
dozens of seemingly rational justifications for the killing of wolves, the
ferocity, intensity, and often outright sadistic cruelty of the widespread
drive to thoroughly annihilate Canis Lupus defies all rational logic.
Lopez suggests a cause for this: "theriophobia" or "fear of the
beast within"--a psychological scapegoating of wolves by human beings.93
The wolf was "the lust, greed, and violence that men saw in
themselves."94 Whole passages of this book deserve to be quoted
here. For instance, like rural Cape Bretoners, wolves were also regarded as
"lazy." Lopez, in interviewing hundreds of wolf killers tells us that,
"On the spur of the moment, men offered ridiculous reasons [for killing
wolves]--because the wolves loafed and didn't have to work for their food."95
Furthermore:
"The wolf became the symbol of what you wanted to
kill--memories of man's primitive origins in the wilderness, the remnant of his
bestial nature which was all that held him back in America from building the
greatest empire on earth. The wolf represented "a fierce bloodsucking
persecutor" (as Roger Williams called him) of everything that was high-born
in a man."96
Whether in America or Canada, the attitude was distinctly European and
Judeo-Christian and was essentially the same throughout: the demonized were
those tribes of people or species of creatures who live in such a way as to not
conform to the presumptuous Western ideal of progress. Such castes reminded "high
born" "Western Man" that his ideal of progress, at their
core, often generated behavior essentially far more "savage"
and "bestial" than anything animals or native (or rural) people might typically engage in.
In some sense, the drive to control rural people and force them conform to the values of the world of industrial capitalism speaks of a continuation of the "pillage and dominate values" of Manifest Destiny and Colonialism. And yet, the ideology that drives these values remains fundamentally unchanged. In this kind of universe, the pioneer and colonist eventually morph into the stockholder and middle class suburbanite; the "wilderness" and its native people shapechange into the rural "hillbilly," the "backlander," the disenfranchised urban poor, the migrant worker, the wetback, etc. In this "New World," animals such as the wolf are represented by the rat, the cockroach, and yes, even the crabgrass afflicting the finely manicured suburban lawn.97 The "problem" animals and plants need to be eradicated or "controlled"; the "problem" people must suck it up and fit in. In Fred McMahon's words, they must "take their fate into their own hands"98--with the implied but unspoken caveat that, in doing so, they do not challenge the legitimacy of the status quo and its systems. In On Wolves and Men, Lopez tells us that "the pioneer's attitude towards wilderness was hostile and utilitarian,"99 in other words, the environment and its resources were something that was there to be used; it was considered hostile to the degree it resisted efforts to forcefully (even violently) make it conform. Giovanna Di Chiro's warning becomes more explicit here: one cannot separate exploitation of the natural environment from the exploitation of the human beings that call that environment "home." Lopez tells us, "men considered that they had dominion over animals the way they had dominion over slaves, that they could do anything they wanted to them" [emphasis added]100
Fortunately, humans are not wolves; when oppressed they often organize and fight back. And yet, for Cape Breton's immigrant Scots,
such grievous struggles are centuries old. In particular, with regard to the history
of labor in industrial Cape Breton, Del Muise notes that:
". . .[Cape Breton] is the only area east of Montreal
to engage in protracted industrial unrest and to support alternative political
representation. For Nova Scotia, the communities [of Cape Breton] represent a
deviancy that is most striking. . ..the uniqueness of industrial Cape Breton is
the product of a combination of circumstances unmatched anywhere else in the
region."101
There is no need here to go into too much detail about nineteenth and early twentieth century labor history. The battle for the rights and welfare of industrial workers against capital interests is well known; the history of worker's rights in Canada closely parallels that of Europe and the United States. Still, in some ways the situation in Cape Breton was, perhaps, more pronounced than it was in other milieus. The reader will recall that I began this essay with a quote by William Bollan in 1746, in which he insists that control of the lands, resources, and settlements of Cape Breton should not be given over to "Companies. . .who generally set their Minds wholly upon getting rich in a little time; and abandon, or neglect every thing which does not immediately return large Profits."102 The amazingly prophetic Bollan further warns that these companies would care very little for the welfare of the inhabitants of the land they are exploiting.103 In spite of such warnings, that is exactly what happened to Cape Breton.
The nature of corporate exploitation in Cape Breton plays out a common,
reckless theme:
1) opening of the resources to capitalist-market (post-subsistence) use;
2) widespread speculation and entrepreneurialism;
3) corporate consolidation;
4) monopoly;
5) reckless exploitation of labor and resources;
6) depletion of resources and/or market resulting in
7) intensified "market reality"-justified exploitation of labor and
natural resources, ending in
inevitable degradation and/or abandonment;
8) nationalization of remaining resources and/or government welfare;
9) widespread poverty, unemployment, and forced emigration; possible physical
and social legacies such as pollution and urban-industrial decay; and
10) subsidized attempts to establish other sources of economic sustainability in
the capitalist system.
Such patterns play themselves out endlessly in capitalist economies. With a few
minor adjustments, one can plug many such instances into the pattern laid out
above. Consider, for example, the course of events leading to and proceeding
from the Dust Bowl agricultural collapse of the Southern United States Plains
(as detailed in Donald Worster's book Dust Bowl: The Southern Plains In the
1930's):104
1) opening of the southern plains to pioneer farmers
2) widespread settlement of small farmsteads
3) consolidation driven by the international wheat market
4) "mega" farms begin to cultivate wheat monoculture
5) tenants and small farmers forced into poverty;
6) wheat monoculture fails in natural drought years; "dust bowl"
disasters;
7) liquidation of farms resulting of further consolidation of land &
intensified exploitation of remaining land through even more monoculture;
8) corporate welfare and government funded land rehabilitation;
9) emigration of rural culture and replacement by homogenous factory farm
non-culture; pesticide legacy; dust storms; soil loss.
10) use of new technology to temporarily maintain an unsustainable level of
resource use while such resources (in particular, aquifers and soil) continue to be depleted. .
.ultimately resulting in future agricultural "crashes."
Another more obvious example would be that of the Scottish immigrants themselves
fleeing Scotland in the wake of "Big Wool." At the heart of this, one
can't help but witness a certain amount of blind greed and shortsighted
entitlement. The human victims of these reckless cycles are most always the
poor, the disenfranchised, the rural, the immigrants, etc. The "outside
interests" simply pack their suitcases when things get rough, cash in their
chips, and seek out new hosts. Any harm they suffer is not physical. As Jim and
Pat Lotz wrote in their honest 1974 "biography" of Cape Breton Island:
"While outsiders seem to have done well from the island, many Cape
Bretoners have been forced to leave or risk remaining unemployed. The obvious
qualities of the Cape Bretoner--friendliness, a sense of independence, an
ability to work hard when the need arises, a sense of pride in the island--seem
at times to turn to anger and a sense of futility that the island's potential
has not been developed for the benefit of its residents."105
To tell this story of "cash and carry" capitalism in Cape Breton is to
tell the story of Cape Breton coal mining (steel production was a spin-off of
Cape Breton coal resources; its fate was entwined with the nearby coal mines
that provided the fuel and coke necessary for the production of steel) . Until
1820, coal mining in Cape Breton was relatively "small scale," mostly
seasonal operations. Following these operations was a thirty year monopoly of
Nova Scotia mineral wealth by the General Mining Association (GMA), lessee to
the Duke of York. Even then, mining did not experience the kind of expansive
growth that occurred from 1856 to 1894, after the GMA was forced to surrender
its monopoly and open coal mining to independent speculators. The 1856 breakup
of the GMA monopoly saw the increase of smaller mining operations; there were
eight of these companies in Cape Breton in 1873, including the GMA. Although
working conditions were notoriously poor (they had been no better under the GMA
monopoly), there were only a few strikes and labor disputes between 1856 and
1894--perhaps because there were more employment options--or, more to the point, the absence
of a monopoly distributed power over a wider base and decreased the influence of
corporate mining interests on government, economy, and individuals. Nonetheless,
coal speculators in Cape Breton usually represented outside interests--typically
American. From1894 until corporate abandonment and the nationalization of Cape
Breton coal and steel in the 1968, steel and coal workers labored under
several successive corporate monopolies: Dominion Coal Company (1894-1921),
Dominion Iron and Steel Company (1900-1921), British Empire Steel Company (BESCO,
1921-1928), and Dominion Steel and Coal Company (DOSCO, 1928-1968).106
These monopolies had a profound detrimental influence on local economies that
went far beyond the extraction of coal and the production of steel. Companies
often owned many of the houses, stores, and utilities in the towns that
supplied their labor. The old song refrain " St. Peter don'tcha call me
cause I can't go....I owe my soul to the company store" might well have
been sung in the Sydney-Glace Bay industrial area. In response to the granting
of a ninety-nine year monopoly of Nova Scotia's coal resources to the American
syndicate Dominion Coal Company, a Nova Scotian Newspaper editorialized that
"within five years" the monopoly
". . .will have rendered extinct the numerous classes
of merchants, small traders, and co-operative store companies now doing business
at and around the mines by compelling first the miners and then all others to
purchase their goods at the Company's stores; will have reduced the miners
and their families to a state of vassalage, as wholly dependent upon the Company
for the food and clothes they wear as were the southern Negroes under slavery.
. ."107 [emphasis added]
The largest and most notorious of these monopolies was BESCO, the 1920's
empire of bootstrap multi-millionaire Roy Wolvin, dubbed, interestingly enough,
"Roy the Wolf" by Cape Bretoners. Already owning a virtual monopoly on
Great Lakes and Canadian Pacific shipping and shipbuilding, he eventually bought
up "almost everything in Nova Scotia related to the steel or coal
industries." Wolvin "had been given a free hand to run the Nova Scotia
industrial economy." BESCO had in fact become the "third largest
employer of wage earners in Canada."108 The potential for abuse
was enormous.
The 1920's and 1930's were particularly difficult decades; labor-to-company
relations were strained at best and combustible at their worst. The provincial
police and the military were called to aid of the coal and steel management on
nearly a dozen occasions to help resolve volatile labor disputes.109 Violence
and the threat of violence as a negotiation tool was common, as in this 1922
Cape Breton strike:
"The wage schedule was accepted under the muzzles of rifles, machine guns
and the gleaming bayonets with further threatened invasion of troops and
warships standing to. The miners, facing hunger, their Dominion and Provincial
governments lined up with Besco, the men were forced to accept the
proposals."110
"The Company," often owning the utilities and homes of miners and
steelworkers, forced laborers and their families out of their houses or deprived
them of necessities in retaliation for striking. The results were often violent,
as in the famous 1925 "Battle of Waterford Lake":
"The town of New Waterford was especially hard hit by
the strike. The town's water supply and electrical needs all came from New
Waterford Lake, a few miles from the town and Besco police had control of this
location. Besco police terrorized the people of New Waterford by charging
through the town on horseback. On June 11 approximately 3,000 infuriated men and
boys gathered at New Waterford and made their way towards the power plant. They
were met at the site by approximately 100 armed police and the so-called Battle
of Waterford Lake took place. Police were hauled off horseback and beaten, while
others jumped in New Waterford Lake and swam to the other side. The police began
to fire their revolvers and three of the miners were shot. . . . The miners
overtook the police and marched them back to town to jail. . . The men were
driven to this action because their supply of water and power to their homes and
schools was cut off." 111
Paul MacEwan describes the events in more intimate detail:
"Immediately a battle was on between men armed with
sticks, stones, and their bare fists, and the Besco police, mounted and firing
their revolvers. The huge crowd of three thousand was so enraged that saddles
were emptied in seconds and men were dragged from their mounts to be clubbed,
beaten, and stomped on. Wounded policemen fled into the woods, while riderless
horses galloped about. . .The miners combed through the woods, rounding up some
thirty unhorsed Besco police, many of whom were dazed and bleeding. These were
forced to march back to New Waterford, and those who could not march were
dragged. They were beaten and manhandled all the way."112
Company stores and mine buildings were burned to the ground, and ultimately, the
military was called to aid Besco in suppressing union activities. The Battle of
Waterford Lake was part of a larger 150 day strike. Prior to the strike, tenant
laborers and their families were being evicted from company housing because they
could not afford to pay their rents.113 Families were on "the
verge of starvation."114 One commentator noted that "the
people of Cape Breton are peace-loving, hard working people. Give them work and
a fair show, and you will not hear a murmur from them. But some of them are
being asked to do an impossible thing. They are being asked to live on nothing."115 For a people whose grandparents had lived through evictions
and starvation at the hands of Scottish landlords, such treatment must have
seemed particularly intolerable.
The Battle of Waterford Lake serves as perhaps the most dramatic illustration of
the strife that regularly occurred during the industrial monopoly years. And
yet, in many ways, it is the legacy of these monopolies that is most tragic: the
pollution, the unemployment, the sense of despair and urban-industrial decay
that haunts Cape Breton even today. Historian David Frank sums up the roots of
that legacy:
"The growth of the coal industry in Cape Breton
expressed above all the financial opportunism of its successive owners, rather
than any commitment to principles of regional economic welfare. Spokesmen for
the coal industry. . .endorsed industrial development as a strategy for utilization of the local
coal and iron resources, but in practice they sought trading links with distant
markets and pursued policies of rapid resource depletion".116
And in this 1967 quote by Sydney's Metropolitan Action Committee, written on
the eve of the collapse of DOSCO, we see the results of that legacy:
"Our area of Cape Breton is a microcosm of North
American industrial society. Our people are subject to all the pressures of that
society even though sometimes deprived of its benefits--alienation of youth; a
sense of hopelessness among many people, young and old; bafflement, frustration,
and even despair in facing increasing complexity in day to day living; pollution
of the environment; the growing helplessness of the individual confronted by big
government, big labor, big business; the whole range of ills that attack the
human spirit in the age of technology. . .The fundamental need is to restore the
average man's faith in the possibility of his having some influence on his own
destiny, and that of his family and his community. People who lack that
conviction--and their number is increasing alarmingly, especially among the
young--lack the fundamental ingredients of citizenship, in fact, of
humanity."117
The economic solution most toted as the cure for the plight of Cape Bretoners
is tourism. Since the opening of the Canso Causeway to the mainland and the
dedication of the Cabot Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, tourism
has been important in Cape Breton. "The people in their native wilds"
have a lot to offer the tourist: stunning natural beauty and a quaintly
fossilized offshoot of Scottish Highland culture. In response to proposals that the people
of post-industrial Cape Breton would best benefit from a tourism-based economy,
Don MacGillivray quips,
"There we have it--right back to "nature's
Ladies and Gentlemen." While the miner still wanted "to continue to
live in his community to earn his living in dignity" and to enjoy
"modest benefits". ..he was prepared to have them in a pre-industrial
setting, or at least as a service industry for the post-industrial society. The
miners have been better served."118
Parks Canada and the Canadian Tourism Commission indicate a few specifics
about the threats of tourism in Cape Breton: 119
Threats
Uncontrolled influx of more tourists or tourists seeking inappropriate
experiences
Damage to ecosystem from misuse
Resentment from communities due to lack of benefits or due to impact on key
community values
Deterioration of key infrastructure
However, this list is somewhat lacking in descriptiveness. The problems of a
tourism-based economy are plain: gentrification; increase in property values, overhead, and
base cost of living which forces emigration of real
culture and replaces it with transient seasonal non-culture; exploitation of
local labor in low paying seasonal service jobs; commercial sprawl; off-season economic
hibernation and the creation of off-season ghost towns; property sellouts to
outsiders with no real community interest or investment; etc. Ultimately, this
kind of economy generates the eventual annihilation of the natural and cultural
resources that drive such an economy in the first place: rich history, beautiful
landscapes, and a strong, vibrant culture. Areas protected as public reserves,
such as Cape Breton Highlands National Park, become fossilized remnants in an
outdoor museum of "the way life should be" (to steal the popular
oxymoron of the state of Maine, with its over-gentrified coastal hot spots such
as Camden and Bar Harbor), while collapsing industrial areas such as Sydney
become homogenous and forgettable "sprawl centers" that serve only to
support the commercial needs of upper middle class tourists from the United
States and other parts of Canada. In this world, tourism functions at its most
base level; tourists don't really learn any appreciation for the culture and
landscape any more than to regard them as consumables. Both landscape and culture are made to conform with the tourist
ideal of quaintness. Aspects of real culture, landscapes, and history that are
seen as less than desirable to tourists are lost, hidden, or destroyed.
We can see this trend as early as the 1930's in travel literature such as
Gordon Brinley's book Away to Cape Breton, in which the author (he
changes his name to "Dan") and his quasi-fictional socialite companion
"The Duchess" take a road trip from New York City to Cape Breton.120
The couple travel all around the island by car and by boat (almost half of the
vacation seems like nothing more than a glorified trophy fishing trip for
Brinley), but neatly avoid describing the harsh industrial landscape of Sydney
which they pass through on two occasions--once even stopping to "window
shop" and catch a movie in a North Sydney cinema. The only visual of Sydney
that we get is that of the small bucolic cottage they spend the night in. And
yet, photography from that time indicates that the area was an industrial
eyesore. Surely "Dan" Brinley and The Duchess must have smelled something
when they motored through Sydney--Jim and Pat Lotz note that industrial fumes
were noxious enough in that region to kill and stunt conifers.121

Efforts by industrialists to make the steel and coal industry seem
"Beautiful"--for instance, in this image from DOSCO's employee
relations magazine Teamwork--were notwithstanding in Brinley's decision
to exclude, in the words of DOSCO, "the massiveness of industry, the
wonders of its production facilities, the intensiveness of its research
efforts."122 In the couple's dialog, history becomes distorted
for the sake of coziness and palatability; poor Scottish crofters and cottars
forced to emigrate to Cape Breton by unscrupulous landlords and rapacious
political economics turn into willing romantic "pilgrims." These
"pilgrims" "sail to" Cape Breton seemingly of their own
volition as if they themselves owned the boats and manned the sails and anchors.
Perhaps the most memorable and telling dialog in the book is that of The Duchess
telling Brinley her theories of immigrant "Scottish Fairies":
"Of course, that's exactly it!" she exclaimed.
"I might have known because old Scotland is full of fairies. Probably when
the Reverend Norman MacLeod sailed away from Scotland in the year 1817, there
were stowaway brownies on board-- brownies, you know, are the good Scotch
fairies."123 [the emphasis here is original]
Tourism often has a warping effect on cultural reality--we only see the good
Scotch fairies. The Sydney Tar Ponds, which the non-commercial Lonely Planet
Guide to Canada describes as "a scene of utter desolation that you'll only
want to see once in your life,"124 isn't on the mental or
physical maps of tourists. Neither are the harsh realities of urban-industrial
decay in the Sydney-Glace Bay area. In Away to Cape Breton, there is no
mention of the despair-induced alcoholism, "the barrooms from which tumbled
drunken men to fight on the sidewalks and stain the area with blood,"125
and no mention of the battles won and lost during conflagratory labor disputes
that were at their worst around the time of Brinley's road trip. Brinley drives
through the heart of industrial Cape Breton--twice--and doesn't even
mention seeing so much as a smokestack.
In Sacred Places, John Sears' book on tourist attractions in the
United States, the author notes that "the picturesque often protected
tourists from too close an encounter with poverty, misery, and
exploitation."126 Sears tells us the story of another coal
mining town--Pennsylvania's Mauch Chunk (later renamed "Jim Thorpe"
after the local football hero in an attempt to stimulate the failing
post-industrial tourism industry). Sears describes how tourists turned a blind
eye to the social and environmental woes of coal mining in Mauch Chunk--even to
the point of grotesque re-characterizations of the realities of the
"breaker boys"--young children "between four and ten years
old" employed to separate coal from stone. These so described "merry,
bright eyed, dirty little urchins" had become quaint in the eyes the
tourist. Here, Sears quotes a 1863 travel article in Harper's Monthly and
offers his conclusion:
"Nothing can be more amusing than the expression
of countenance and the movements of these little fellows, nothing more ludicrous
than their ragged and ungainly habilimnents. They seem to be rather amusing
themselves than working, as they lazily pick out and drop underneath the pieces
of slate-rock, which the casual visitor could not tell from genuine coal, but
which they detect by sort of indolent intuition."
"The amusement at their appearance and behavior, the attitude that they
were cute in a grotesque way, and the suggestion that they worked joyfully and
were indolent indicate how thoroughly the picturesque could obscure
oppression."127
Changes in modern child labor ethics aside, we inevitably must ask the
question of tourism in Cape Breton: at what point does tourism cause the erosion
of culture and enable the exploitation of local people, their economy, and their
environment? Going further back: Did tourism in the Cape Breton Highlands help
obscure the social and economic plight of industrial Cape Breton? Did the
popular image of Cape Bretoners as "Nature's Ladies and
Gentlemen"--the Noble Savages "in their native wilds"--encourage
a general tolerance of the oppressive labor and economic policies of Big Coal
and Steel?
Alan Sekula, commenting on tourist-centered "coffee table" photography
books of rural Cape Breton writes,
"Within these books, landscape is offered as the
antithesis of an industry that is not pictured. We should note, however, that
the actual landscape of Cape Breton is not exempt from the pressures of
industrial development. . .And so perhaps, today, the very idea of
"landscape" has to be defended, but in a politically organized and
ecologically sensitive fashion."128
Yes--politically organized and ecologically sensitive, to be sure--but we should
not forget to include a sustainable human society in our portfolio of
"landscape." The reality of a tourism that is rooted in the
consumption of popular images of the "wild" or the "rural"
too easily helps us dismiss those undesirable aspects of the
landscape--including the blue collar industrial worker-- that in reality make
the consumption of those popular images possible. Cape Breton's only city and
only big industrial center, Sydney, becomes divorceable from the rest of Cape
Breton---its history, its reality, and its people become a lost cause of sorts,
simply because it is a blue collar industrial area--it and its problems may as
well fall into the sea. The part of Cape Breton that is still "pure"
is walled off from the part that is considered "diseased." The
Canadian Tourism Commission and Parks Canada have adopted this interesting
definition of ecotourism:
". . .tourism that consists in traveling to
relatively undisturbed or uncontaminated areas with the specific
objective of studying, admiring, and enjoying the scenery and its wild plants
and animals as well as any existent cultural manifestations found in these
areas."129 [emphasis added]
Richard White, in his analysis of the dualism we engage in when looking at
nature and labor, writes, "We turn public lands into a public playground;
we will equate the wild lands with rugged play; we will imagine nature as an
escape, a place where we are born again
. . .Nature may turn out to look a lot
like an organic Disneyland, except it will be harder to park."130
White notes that "nature" will become "a paradise where we leave
work behind";131 if that is so, then we will be also leaving the
worker behind as well--we will end up forcing him and his plight out of
our purified "Eden"--at first psychologically, then physically. In the
same vein, Giovanna Di Chiro tells us that efforts to get popular environmental
organizations to recognize urban pollution and oppression as an
"environmental problem" often resulted in the shrugging off of cities
and the people who live in them as unworthy of attention by these groups.132
And yet, the fate of urban-industrial Cape Breton and rural Cape Breton are, and
always have been, inextricably entwined. Tourism unnaturally obscures that
reality.
My intent is not to advocate the eradication of tourism in Cape Breton, but rather to suggest that the growth of tourism not happen without some forethought towards sustainability. The World Tourism Organization defines "sustainable tourism" as:
"Development that meets the needs of present tourists and hosts regions while protecting and enhancing opportunities for the future. It is envisaged as leading to management of all resources in such a way that economic, social and aesthetic needs can be fulfilled while maintaining cultural integrity, essential ecological processes, biological diversity and life support systems." 133
This is a good definition to consider, as there is a real and obvious danger
that tourism without local restraint will leave the people of Cape Breton in no
better a situation than the coal monopolies did--perhaps even worse. At least
BESCO and DOSCO didn't destroy the will and unique culture of Cape Bretoners. As
Don MacGillivray rightly points out, it is the strong sense of culture and
tradition that allowed the Cape Bretoners to survive the hardships they were
forced to endure.134 Whether or not they will succumb after all this
time to unchecked tourism will ultimately depend how dependent on unchecked
tourism the island becomes.
If it is true that one cannot separate the environment from the people that live
there, then it is also true that what you do to one, you do to other other. I am
inclined to accept this hypothesis--especially with regard to those groups of
people whose survival is most closely tied to the dynamics of the landscape they
call home. I borrow from Giovanna Di Chiro who provides a quote from
anthropologist Stephen Feld that illustrates my point:
"When I read that we lose 15-20,00 species of plants
and animals a year through the logging, ranching, and mining that escalates the
rainforest destruction, my mind immediately begins to ponder how to possibly
calculate the number of songs, myths, words, ideas, artifacts, techniques--all
the cultural knowledge and practices lost per year in these mega-diversity
zones. Massive wisdom, variations on human being in the form of knowledge in and
of place: these are the co- casualties in the eco-catastrophe. Eco-thinout may
proceed at a rate much slower than cultural rubout, but accomplishment of the
latter is a particularly effective way to accelerate the former. The politics of
ecological and aesthetic co-evolution and do-devolution are one."135
Feld's point is well taken: the destruction of culture proceeds simultaneously
with that of environment. But even then, I think the paradigm needs to be pushed
further: we need to stop defining culture and environment as two different
things.
The famous ecologist and writer Aldo Leopold once noted that the ultimate result
of environmental exploitation is violence.136 When we witness the
history of Cape Breton, we are seeing how that violence plays itself out
socially and environmentally. Both society and environment have experienced
massive blows; both continually impact each other. Leopold warned that we should
"quit thinking about decent land use a solely an economic problem."
Instead, we should analyze how we think about landscape in terms of what is
"ethically and esthetically right as well as economically expedient."
"A thing is right" Leopold explains, "when it tends to preserve
the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when
it tends otherwise."137 We must not forget to include human
culture as a living dynamic in our definition of "biotic community."
When this "biotic community" exists solely for the exploitation of
others with no thoughts as to the local costs of such usage, violence is
ultimately the result. The point then, is to recognize violence as
violence--regardless if it is active or passive--and to stop labeling it
otherwise. With regard to Cape Breton, I have shown how outside interests
pillaged biotic resources recklessly and violently--leaving a legacy of biotic
disenfranchisement. I have also shown how this disenfranchisement is so often
met with denial and victim-kicking rhetoric.
Antagonists such as Fred McMahon, offering capitalist solutions
to Cape Breton's economic woes, aren't acknowledging that it was the headlong
thoughtless drive of capitalism that caused these problems in the first place.
Not to say that capitalism can't offer any solutions; quite possibly it can. And
yet, by not acknowledging the glaring failures of that system and how they
played themselves out in Cape Breton, and by not learning from them, it is
likely that history will be doomed to repeat itself. As Richard White tells us,
"if work is not perverted into a means of turning place into property, it
can teach us how deeply our work and nature's work are entwined."138
Gary Snyder, in his essay "The Place, the Region, and the Commons"
suggests a "commons" that truly belongs to the people, rather than
industries (such as Big Wool or Big Coal).139 The "commons"
are what belongs to all Cape Bretoners--the biotic total of culture, economy, and
environment--the sum expressed in the term "place." Big business sees
that biota as private property--and that is the root of the problem. Or, as Gary
Snyder eloquently expresses:
"Locally based community or tribal landholding
corporations or cooperatives seem to be surviving here and there. But operating
as it seems they must in the world marketplace, they are wrestling with how to
balance tradition and sustainability against financial success. .. The challenge
is to bring the whole victimized world of "common pool resources" into
the Mind of the Commons. As it stands now, any resource on earth that is not
nailed down will be seen as fair game to the timber buyers or petroleum
geologists from Osaka, Rotterdam, or Boston. The pressures of growing
populations and the powers of entrenched (but fragile, confused, and essentially
leaderless) economic systems warp the likelihood of any of us seeing clearly.
Our perception of how entrenched they are may also be something of a
delusion."140
The 1B Colliery Garden can be seen as a local expression of such an ideal. Not only did the communal underground garden stand for the psychological center of an agrarian culture many centuries old, it was also was central to the hopes of those people who emigrated from Scotland (and other places as well)--that they might have a tiny bit of earth to call their own; that they might prosper where before there had been oppression. Although forced into the brutal occupations of coal mining and steel making by economic pressures, they never lost sight of their cultural roots--they were, at the heart, a people in love with life. That a garden might grow in a coal mine is nothing short of a small miracle. It is an expression of joy and culture in a world intent on crushing and subjugating both; it is emblematic of the spirit of the Cape Bretoner. When I saw the Ocean Deeps Colliery Garden, I knew what I was looking at--a psychological symbol of a people's determination to resist oppression and control; a symbol of the sustainable world they all craved in their hearts--what they had traveled across the Atlantic to claim, what they are still trying to claim.
_______________________
There are many ways to approach the understanding of place--a term I use to encompass both people and environment. I chose the symbolic route--by examining the significance of a small light-bulb dependant garden in a Glace Bay coal mine. Through that garden, and the compelling narrative of its true high priest, Hinson Calabrese, I have unraveled a history that spans centuries--a history that binds land and people in inextricably beautiful and terrifying ways.
The place where we begin our point of departure from the ignorance of un-questioning and non-thinking matters less than the point where we do find our place and begin. I am not a resident of Cape Breton; I admit that my exploration was limited by what I could read in books, journals, and on the web; and by what I chose to explore or happened upon during the course of several long vacations in Cape Breton Island over the span of three summers. All told, my visits there barely add up to a total of a month's stay--and all of that in the summer. I have not watched the sea crystallize over Bay St. Lawrence in the winter; I have not visited the Acadian quarter of Cape Breton--the Isle Madame--nor, sadly, have I had much to say about the real natives of Cape Breton, the Mi'kmaq Nation. I did attempt to participate in a traditional Scottish square dance one night while staying in the town of Mabou. Frankly, I was terrible at it.
Notes
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